Malaysian Culture Group Wednesday 20th March 2024

When you think of the national archives, what comes to mind? A dark room full of dusty old papers? Nothing could be further from the National Archive’s three memorials celebrating first Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman, third Prime MInister Tun Hussein Onn and the seven Statesmen who were instrumental in the establishment of Malaysia.

The three buildings are next to each other in a beautiful spot at Bukit Perdana, along Jalan Dato Onn. The architecture is in itself a reason to visit, ranging from a heritage bungalow from 1888 to an innovative 2017 structure with passive and renewable energy design certified by the Green Building Index. This is a fitting setting for a vast collection which showcases Malaysia’s history in a way which can appeal to present day visitors.

Our tour began in the Tun Hussein Onn building which is the most recent construction. The ground floor has architectural information and a model of the new building, highlighting the innovative construction. The architect wanted this new structure to connect and not overshadow the existing buildings, in a way he hopes will echo Tun Hussein Onn’s personality and contribution as Bapa Perpaduan (Father of Unity). The main exhibition space is on Level 1 and as you enter, you’re greeted by the unexpected sight of a beautiful classic Mercedes - the Prime Minister’s official car. In answer to a few bemused queries, our friendly guide and archivist Zawanie was able to highlight that the car was placed there before the ceiling! The gallery traces his rich and varied life story, from his early days to time in the Jungle Squad in India to his greatest achievements in promoting the unity of Malaysians in his role as Deputy Prime Minister and later, PM. Don’t miss the Level 3 roof garden with 360° views of the KL skyline. The group were initially unsure about braving the stairs, especially as the lift was under maintenance, but the panorama was definitely worth the climb.

After descending the stairs, we left the building and ascended a - slight - hill, with another classic car waiting under the porte-cochère to greet us. This was the beginning of the Tunku Abdul Rahman memorial and as you gaze on the whitewashed nineteenth-century bungalow and listen to the chirping bulbuls, you could forget that if you turned around there’s the ultra-modern Asia School of Business of Bank Negara. This old house was the official residence of Tunku, which he chose in preference to the plot at Jalan Perdana where the new California-style residence was to be built in the 60’s. Instead, Tunku proposed that this modern building should be occupied by Deputy Prime Minister Tun Abdul Razak, and this became the official residence of both the second and third Prime Ministers. The 1888 building is by the famed architect Frank Swettenham built as the residence of the British Resident of Selangor, following the style of an earlier version which was moved to the site from Klang in 1880. Thanks to Tunku’s love of the building, it has been beautifully preserved and cherished. All the fixtures - the elegant hardwood floorboards, arched shutters and patterned tiles - are original, as is the wonderful collection of furniture displayed in its original place. Three fully-furnished grand reception rooms; one for the men, one for the women and the dining room give a real feeling that you might be welcoming a visiting dignitary at any moment. Upstairs, the feeling is much more intimate, with the family bedrooms leading off a single corridor with tall doors at either end. These doors lead to the wide veranda, which is a highlight of the house. The cool breeze and greenery envelops the upper floor and it is easy to see why all the bedrooms have large doors opening onto the freshness. Tunku had a direct route via the spiral staircase from his office to take the air up here and enjoy the view from what was then one of the highest parts of KL. Tunku Ahmad Nerang, his eldest son, believes that the government has chosen the perfect place for his father’s memorial as he deeply respected its historical importance as the home of the first British Resident, the first Chief Minister and the first Prime Minister of Malaysia.

This residence is only one of three sections of Tunku’s memorial, the others being the exhibition section and the office, both connected to the house. The exhibition section was unfortunately closed at our visit. The office is literally that - the original Prime Minister’s office building, which originally stood next door where the current Statemen’s Memorial is, and was moved in its entirety...twice. For the renovation, the simple wooden longhouse-style building was taken into storage in Petaling Jaya, before being carefully transported back to its new home in a controlled environment. Again, this is furnished with all the original items and is very evocative of the era. This humble workplace is a stark contrast to the grandeur and intricacy of Perdana Putra today. Just outside the office, the original desk used at the first meeting of the cabinet on 10th September 1957 is particularly meaningful and moving.

The final building in the memorial complex is Negarawan - the Statesmen’s Memorial. This building is set over three storeys and pays tribute to the seven men who were instrumental in Malaysia’s independence. There are also two rooms recreated in impeccable detail here - the Cabinet Meeting Room and the Prime Minister’s Office. The Cabinet Meeting Room was used as the office until the renovation was completed in 1970. This office was then occupied by the first four Prime Ministers of Malaysia, until they moved to Putrajaya in 1999. The seven statesmen each have their own sizeable section of the gallery devoted to their life story. For all of the men, the displays tell us about their early life and family, their studies and careers before moving on to their involvement in the movement which shaped the country today. Many faced political trials and tribulations which are highlighted here, as well as their notable achievements and awards and recognition they have received, both nationally and internationally. In addition to their professional lives, we are given an insight into their personal lives, with souvenirs of their hobbies and interests providing a human touch to these incredibly impressive individuals. It’s a real highlight to see this group of people from diverse backgrounds and with varied careers brought together in celebration of their enormous contribution to modern day multicultural Malaysia.

The National Archives have used a variety of engaging methods to tell the life stories of these nation builders, including informative panels in both Bahasa Melayu and English, dioramas staging important events and the use of lots of images and video, including contemporary newspapers magnified and highlighted. In addition, there are interactive features which will appeal to adults and children alike - such as giant books set into the wall which have questions on the cover about Tun Hussein Onn, which you can open to find the answers.

The detailed recreations of rooms filled with original furniture and objects in their proper place all contribute to bringing their stories, and those of the early days of Malaysia, to life. Looking through the many personal possessions of these men and their families really helps us to see the humans behind the politicians, though there are an inordinate number of beautiful classic golf clubs! Zawanie informed us that the environment is carefully controlled, with lighting, temperature and humidity monitored to best ensure the preservation of the ageing items. Almost all the objects are originals which have been carefully stored, though replicas are made for a few fragile items such as clothing.

You could choose to approach the visit chronologically, or just visit one section at a time - there’s plenty to see and we could have spent much longer than the two hours of our visit. The good news is that in the Statesmen Memorial building there’s a water fountain and even a small snack shop next to a comfortable seating area if you’re in need of a break.

The memorials are open every day except Monday and are free of charge. There is plenty of parking. Many thanks to our very helpful, informative and patient guides Zawanie and Syed Iskandar.

Review by Lorna Haizelden