February 2025 - Thaipusam
The MCG guided tour of Batu Caves on February 10th with Sean Liew took place one day before Thaipusam, the day when the star Pusam is at its highest point during the full moon of the Hindu month of Thai.
During Thai, devotees make vows and fulfilling pledges to Lord Murugan, the son of Parvati and Shiva. Thaipusam commemorates the day when Murugan defeated the demon Soorapadam with the spear (Vel) Parvati gave him. Murugan settled in Southern India after losing out to Ganesh in a competition to be awarded the fruit of wisdom and is particularly venerated by Southern India’s Tamil and their descendants in Malaysia. Those descendants brought the Thaipusam festival to Malaysia and have celebrated it in Batu Caves for the last 135 years.
Those making a vow to Murugan pledge that if their prayers come true, they will fulfil their pledge by fasting, praying and carrying an offering to Murugan’s temple at Batu Cave during Thai, ideally making the pilgrimage during the most auspicious day of the month, Thaipusam. Devotees fulfilling their pledge are generally accompanied and supported by family members. On the day itself, they start by heading to the Batu river, dressed in yellow, the colour associated with Murugan, make ablutions and possibly shaving off their hair or beards. The ablutions are followed by prayers on the riverbanks, where they will prepare their offerings. Priests and musicians surround the devotees and help the pennant, through praying, chanting, drumming, incense burning and rubbing with holy ash, to enter into a trance that will enable the pennant to carry out the pledge. This can include piercings symbolising the Vel, carrying a Kavadi or an offering of milk, either in a pot on the head or two pots hanging from a pole balanced by the bearer. The pole carrying two pots recalls the Assura Idumban, whom the gods tasked with carrying two hills suspended on a pole from the Himalaya to Southern India. The Kavadi are quite creative and are decorated with flowers, feathers of the peacock (Muruguan’s vehicle), and a picture of the deity. Parents who prayed for a child will present it to the deity within a year, carrying it in a yellow hammock hanging from a pole made of bundled sugarcane.
With the expert guidance of Sean, MCG members were able to follow the preparations of several devotees and their procession from the river up to the caves, with regular stops for praying, dancing and chanting. Once the devotees reached the stairs next to the 43m high Murugan statue, the musicians stayed behind while the devotees and their families climbed the 272 steps to the caves. Inside, they brought the pots of milk to the priests who poured it over the deity. Having completed their pledge, the devotees were assisted by priests who rubbed them with holy ash before removing their piercing and gently helped them out of their trance.
Going on a weekday day before Thaipusam proved a good choice. It was not too crowded, allowing our group to easily observe the different stages of this fascinating ceremony and hear Sean’s very interesting explanations. Thanks to Sean’s expert guidance, we were able to understand and truly appreciate this fascinating ritual and admire the fervour of the devotees.
Review with many thanks to Christina Gerstgrasser
